🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.